Tharpu Chuli Climbing

  • Located in the heart of the Annapurna Sanctuary, Tharpu Chulu( 5500m) is an attractive mountain : part of the ridge line,thrown south from Glacier Dom,that includes Singu Chuli and acts as a central divider between the semi-circle of peaks enclosing the sanctuary.
    As well as enjoyable climbing the mountains offers one of the outstanding view points of the Annapurna massive. From it’s Summit you have a superb panorama of Hiunchuli(6,331m),Annapurna south(7,219m),Fang(7,647m),Annapurna 1(8,091m),Gangapurna(7,455m) AnnapurnaIII( 7,555m),Annapurna V( 7,525m), Machhapuchhre( 6,993m) & Singu Chuli or fluted peak( 6501m) seen from the moraines above the huts at the Annapurna south base camp ,the mountain takes on a shape, aptly described by it’s former name Tent peak,with its long south –east ridge forming the sloping ridge pole.The lower half of the south –west face is a serious of rocky gullies and buttresses giving way to strongly etched snow flutes.Under a lot of snow this becomes a very attractive aspect indeed with a good number of lines.
    Tharpu Chuli is relatively low altitude and reasonable approach, without serious objective danger, make this an attractive mountain, especially when combined with its position and ease of access.
    North –west Routes:
    From the huts at the Annapurna South base camp follow the trail east along the moraine ridge for 200 metres to a well-made caim. This marks the descent path on to the south Annapurna glacier. This is quite steep and often snow covered. The path across the glacier is marked by caims and leads direcly to the moraines on the north side of glacier.These moraines look loose and formidable several ways sems possible.
    From the relatively flat boulders strewn area bellow the moraine there is an obvious stream bed. A faint path leads over loose terrain to the crest of the moraine
    To the left of the stream bed it is an obvious dry gully,quite narrow in its middle se steeply to the moraine crest. It would be difficult to avoid rockfall in this gully. The flat ,grassy area above the moraine is a good campsite and is nenerally referred to as Tent peak camp.
    A high camp is necessary . From base camp follow the moraine north –west for about ten minutes to an obvious deep-cut gully. Astream emerges from the gully. A faint path climbs to the top of the east bank up a grassy buttress. The other path leads from the top of the grassy buttress to flatter glass slopes.It then crosses the stream above the gully and contours the hillside to reach the flat summnit of a buttress. This side would also make a suitable base camp.
    A RIDGE ABOVE THIS CAMPSITE IS FOLLOWED TO A LEVEL AREA WHICH MAY BE SNOW COVERED. This is a suitable site for high camp. There is a further suitable camp site at 5030 metres.
    From the high camp(4877m) ,the level glacier bellow the west flank of Tharpu Chuli can be reached without difficulty in one hour by following easy slopes towards  Raksi peak and the left –hand side of the glacier,avoiding all crevasses. This leads to the level glacier at 5,334 metres.Cross the glacier easily to the foot of the fluted wall separating Tharpu Chu;I and Singu Chuli. The wall is a approximately 120 metres high as its lowest point,rising to 180 meters on either side.
    Several lines are possible ,but at the right –hand eand the angle is easiest and snow condition will dictate the best route.At the right hand end an easy snow slope leads to the foot of a gully. Cross an easy berschrund and climb the gully between flutings for 60 metres at an angle of 45 degrees, taking the left fork, where the angle steepens to 55 degrees for the final 90 metres to the ridge.
    At this point the ridge is broad and easy but soon steepens as you climb towards the summit into a knife-eadge ridge of approximately 50 degrees. This is followed for 45 metres,after which the angle eases and the ridge leads quickly to the summit.
    The overall grade is alpine PD. Some parties have used fixed rope on the steep section of flutings.
    South East Ridge Route:
    Lloking at the mountain from Annapurna south base camp the route takes the obvious wide couloirs that joins the south –east ridge about way along its length.Follow the approach to tent peak base camp described for the north west ridge. Follow the same route to high camp. From the high camp follow easy ground east under Tharpu Chuli towards the couloirs and then cross a small glacier to the foot of the couloirs.Climb the right hand side of the couloirs on snow/ice for 120 metres,before traversing left across steep snow fields to the other side of the couloirs through a steep, narrow section to gain an open snow-field and finally the ridge. This takes about four hours from high camp.
    Follow the airy crest of the ridge to a rock tower which can be passed on the left side by a snow shelf and so regain the ridge on the far side. Cintinue following this classic ridge ,without further difficulties ,to the summit . In descent it was quicker to abseil from the top of the rock pinnacle on the ridge rather than make the traverse around its side. The ascent took about six hours from camp. It might be advantageous to make camp near the base of the coloir. The overall grade is Alpine AD.


  • Detail Itinerary:

    Day to Day Itinerary

    DAY 1:
    Arrival day in Kathmandu [1,300m/4,264 ft]
    Upon your arrival in the Kathmandu airport (TIA), you will be greeted by a representative from Adventure Speed(P) Ltd. After completing your custom formalities (visa, etc) pick up your luggage and look for our representative with a Adventure Speed(P) Ltd  display board at the arrival gate. You will be then transferred to Hotel. After check in, you can either take a rest, hang around in the city, visit our office; it all depends upon your interests and condition.

    DAY 2:
    Kathmandu [1300 m/4264 ft]: Sightseeing and Preparation
    We start a guided tour to four of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Kathmandu.  Kathmandu Durbar Square holds the palaces of the medieval Kings who ruled over the then Kathmandu Kingdom. Pashupatinath houses a sacred lingum, or the phallic symbol of Lord Shiva. The Aryaghat alongside Pashupati and on the banks of the Bagmati River is a famous funeral site for the Hindus. The Buddhists shrine of Boudhanath is one of the largest stupas in the world, and one of the holiest Buddhist pilgrimage and tourist destinations in Kathmandu.  The area of Boudhanath is also famous for over 50 Tibetan Gompas or monasteries. Swayambhu meaning the "the self-existent" is popular among the foreigners as theMonkey Temple owing to the large number of monkey population residing in the area. Overnight at Kathmandu. Breakfast (B)
    DAY 3: Kathmandu to Pokhara [823m/2,700ft]: 6 hrs drive
    Early morning at around 7 am, we set off for Pokhara on a tourist bus. Enroute we will see more of countryside of Nepal that offers greeneries, rivers, villages, farms and beautiful mountain sceneries. Afternoon, we reach Pokhara. Pokhara offers magnificent views of Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Machhapuchhare, five peaks of Annapurna and others. Pokhara is know as city of lakes as it hosts numerous beautiful lakes. We can explore the most accessible and beautiful, Fewa Lake during the afternoon and enjoy boating too. We spend the evening exploring, relaxing and dining by the side of tranquil Lake, Fewa. We can even do some shopping during the evening hours. Overnight in Pokhara. (B)

    DAY 4:
    Drive to Naya Pul and trek to Ghandruk (1940m/6360 ft): 5-6 hrs trek
    We drive for about an hour to reach Naya Pul from where we start our trek. Upon reaching Birethanti, we trek uphill on the trail to Ghandruk enjoying the panoramic views of the mountains. We pass along various small villages such as Chimrong, Syauli Bazar, Chane etc. We cross the suspension bridge over Khumnu Khola and finally we arrive at Ghandruk, a slope settlement with stone houses mostly inhabited by the Gurung people. Along with enjoying the stunningly close-up towering views of Fishtail, Annaurna South, and Hiuchuli mountains, we also acquaint ourselves with the simple but rich cultural traditions of the Gurung people in Ghandruk. (B, L, D)

    DAY 5:
    Ghandruk to Chhomrong (2170m/7120ft): 6 hrs trek
    We climb up for an hour up to Ghandrukkot and then a steep descent takes us to the Kimron Khola. After another steep ascent from Kimron Khola, we make an hour of easy walk. Then we take a steep climb continuing up to Chhomrong. Towering above the village is the mighty peak of Annapurna South, with the Fishtail Mountain (Machhapuchhare) facing it across the valley. Chhomrong is a beautiful village located on the lap of giant Annapurna massive. Overnight in Chhomrong. (B, L, D)

    DAY 6:
    Trek to Dobhan & Himalaya Hotel [2840m/9318ft]: 6 hrs
    We head out of Chhomrong along the Modi Khola leaving behind inhabited foothills into the high step and wooded slopes of Himalayas. We cross the suspension bridge then trek up to Sinuwa Danda. The ascent from Sinuwa becomes somewhat flatter. The trail passes through thick & dark rhododendron forest up to Khuldighar.  Then we descend a long and steep stone steps into deep bamboo and rhododendron forests. Pass through deep bamboo and rhododendron forest to the village of Doban . Another gentle gradual ascend following the trail above the river through a thick bamboo, oak and rhododendron forests up the side of the canyon. (B, L, D)

    DAY 7:
    Trek to MBC [3700m/12135ft]: 3-4 hrs trek
    We cross two streams over small bridges. The trail passes through solitary places. The wilderness gives piece to our mind. There is also the possibility of seeing a variety of species of wildlife such as wild pig, deer, snow leopard, etc. Climb again to the Hinko Cave, an overhanging rock. Climbing further arrive at Deorali and after about half an hour walk from Deorali, we will find ourselves in middle of river bed surrounded by giant snow-covered mountains. The hike to MBC is somewhat strenuous but the unfolding views of the majestic Machhapuchre are certainly a rewarding experience. Enjoy the views of Mount Hiunchuli, Annapurna South, Annapurna I, Annapurna III, Gangapurna and, of course, the Fishtail or Machhapuchhare itself.  (B, L, D)

    DAY 8:
    MBC to ABC [4,130m/13,545ft]: 2-3 hrs trek
    On the way to ABC from MBC, the vegetation disappears. We see the snow boulders melting and forming small streams. The path widens as we enter the Sanctuary, follows a stream, and then climbs to a few huts alongside a moraine. There are sensational views of the near-vertical south face of Annapurna towering above the sanctuary. Annapurna Base Camp sanctuary boasts of a dynamic view without anything impeding panorama of the 360 degrees. Savor the mesmerizing views of the Machhapuchre, Annapurna south, Annapurna I, Hiuchuli and other peaks. Climax of our trip almost ends today. Afternoon exploration above base camp. (B, L, D)

    DAY 9:
    Acclimatization & Climbing Preparation
    Your guide will brief you about the climb. Feel free to ask any question with your team leader and guides that you may have regarding the climb. After lunch, our guides will provide training on peak climbing techniques and on using climbing gears such as ice axe, climbing boot, harness, jummer, and how to go up and down using ropes. There will be training on how to fix the ropes, climbing technique, and about the knot and gears. We believe that some training experience will boost up your confidence and climbing skills, thus increasing the chances of scaling the summit as well as fully enjoy the experience. For those not willing to climb the peak, there are plenty of options for walks and exploration in the area including a trip o discover the South Face of Annapurna I. (B, L, D)

    DAY 10:
    Trek to Tent peak Base Camp [4450m/14,600ft]: 5 hrs
    We cross the glaciated mountain passes descending onto Annapurna South Galcier. Follow the cairned trail across the surface on the ice. Climb the moraine on the opposite bank of the glacier. Enjoy the views of the high mountains from 6000ers to 8000ers. Finally arrive at the Tent Peak Base Camp which is a flat camping area.  (B, L, D)

    DAY 11:
    Trek to High Camp [5,200m/17,056 ft]: 5 hrs
    Today, we make a steep ascent to the Tent Peak High Camp. Enjoy the panoramic views of Hiunchuli (6441m), Annapurna South (7229m), Annapurna I (8091m), Fishtail Mountain, and other snow-capped high mountains. Climb the hill to a glacial bowl. After setting up the high camp, we spend the remainder of the day discovering and making preparations. (B, L, D)

    DAY 12:
    Summiting Tent Peak, Return to High Camp: 6 hrs
    Around midnight, we get ready for the final push. Cross the short glacier to reach the base of several snow flutings. Climb fixed ropes to the final summit ridge. As we get nearer the summit, a sharp top of Tent Peak (5663m / 18,580 ft) unfolds. After summiting, we return by the same route to the high camp. (B, L, D)

    DAY 13:
    Descent to Tent Peak Base Camp then to ABC: 4-5 hrs
    Today we descend to the glacier and to Tent Peak Base Camp. Trek further down to the Annapurna Base Camp. Reaching the ABC, we take our lunch and relax. (B, L, D)

    DAY 14: ABC to Bamboo [2310m/7575ft]: 6 hrs trek
    Get up in the early morning and savor the magnificent sunrise over the Himalayas from ABC. Afer taking breakfast, we start descending from ABC to MBC, Deurali, Doban and finally to Bamboo. Heading back down to the valley is much easier than climbing up. You will see the waterfalls that drop down from a high point to the rocks belows. Pass thorugh the forests with great views of Fishtail and Hiunchuli mountains. (B, L, D)

    DAY 15:
    Bamboo to New Bridge/Jhinu Dada [1760m/5770 ft]: 6 hrs trek
    From Bamboo we make a steep ascent to the Kuldi Ghar and then to Sinuwa. Follow the stone steps that leads  to Lower Chomrong. Then ascend on the thousand stony steps taking us to Upper Chomrong. From Chomrong we descend to Jhinu Danda. We get opportunity to enjoy hot springs lying just a 15-min walk from Jhinu Danda. (B, L, D)

    DAY 16:
    Jhinu Dada to Naya Pul to Pokhara: 6 hrs trek, 1 hour drive
    Trek from Jhinu danda to New bridge and then to Kyumi village. After lunch we trek to Syauli bazar and then down to Birethanti. From Birethanti, about an hour's trek and we arrive at Naya Pul. The trek ends at Naya Pul. From Naya Pul we take a vehicle and reach Pokhara in about an hour. Overnight in Pokhara (850m/2,789ft). (B, D)

    DAY 17: Pokhara to Kathmandu: 6 hrs drive
    After breakfast, we start our drive back to Kathmandu. Better to hold on the left pane of the vehicle to enjoy the scenery through the route. Upon arrival in Kathmandu, we get transferred to our hotel; and we spend the afternoon leisurely, perhaps catch up on some last minute shopping and in the evening celebrate dinner together with Himalayan Glacier Trekking staffs. Overnight in Kathmandu. (B, D)

    DAY 18:
    You are saying good bye to the mountains as your journey in Nepal comes to an end today! We take you to the airport as per your flight time. We hope you enjoyed the trek, and are sure you will be back trekking somewhere in the Himalaya again. Approximately 3 hours before your scheduled flight a representative from Adventure Speed(P) Ltd will take you to the airport. On your way home you'll have plenty of time to plan your next adventure in the wonderful country of Nepal. (B)

  • What Is Included
    All airport/hotel transfers
    Guided sightseeing tour in Kathmandu with temple/monuments entrance fees
    Kathmandu-Pokhara-Kathmandu by tourist bus
    Three nights in 3 star hotel in Kathmandu, two nights in 2-3 star hotel in Pokhara
    Teahouse/Lodge during trekking and tented accommodation during climbing session
    Breakfast in Kathmandu and Pokhara and all meals in mountain
    All other ground transportation as per the itinerary by private vehicles
    All necessary staffs with experienced English speaking climbing and trekking leader (guide), cook, assistant climbing leader (4 trekkers: 1 assistant guide), Sherpa porters to carry luggage (2 trekkers:1 porter), other helpers as per requirement for the climbing section including their salary, insurance, equipment, flight, food and lodging
    All necessary paper works; trekking permits and Island Peak climbing permit
    Down jacket, four seasonal sleeping bag, Adventure Speed Trekking duffel bag, t-shirt, and trekking map (down jacket and sleeping bag are to be returned after trip completion)
    Group Mountaineering climbing and camping equipment for climbing part -very high quality North Face or Mountain Hardware tents for camping and kitchen, dining, toilet tents, mattresses, kitchen equipments
    Travel and rescue arrangements
    Welcome and farewell dinner
    Exclusive Medical Kit Bag
    All government and local taxes

    What Is Not Included
    Nepal Visa fee (bring accurate USD cash and two passport photographs )
    Airport departure tax(Rs. 200 per person)
    International and domestic flights
    Excess baggage charges
    Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu or Pokhara (and also in the case of early return from the mountain than the scheduled itinerary)
    Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu and Pokhara because of early arrival, late departure, and early return from the mountain(due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
    Travel and rescue insurance
    Personal climbing equipments
    Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, extra porters, bottle or boiled water, shower etc)
    Tips for guides and porters

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